| I am no longer a dealer for Dillon Precision. But, below are my reviews, comparisons, and detailed info for Dillon Precision’s Square Deal B, RL 550B, XL 650, and the Super 1050 B, from when I was a Dillon dealer.
If you call Dillon to place your order – if my info was helpful, please mention that to your Dillon sales rep.
Topics covered below:
NOTE: The prices on this page are approximate, and will not reflect price changes after 2015. |
Which Dillon? Square Deal B RL 550 B XL 650 Super 1050 Machine Summary Machine Options Caliber Conv. Reloading Access. |
Now would be a good time to make a cup of coffee…
| Which Dillon? | |
| Dillon Precision is the only choice for all your reloading needs. If you’ve done the research, you know where I’m coming from. Consider the quality and innovation behind each product, the lifetime “No BS” warranty, and the unparalleled reputation for post-sale service, and there simply isn’t any other option. Your only decision is which machine to buy.
When I was a Dillon dealer for 15 years, I received approximately 1,234,567 phone calls and emails about which press to buy, and what options to buy along with it. The rest of this page is the result of that… Whether you’re just getting started, or have been reloading forever – Dillon offers a machine for every budget or reloading need. From the “pistol only” Square Deal, the “workhorse” RL 550B, the fully progressive XL 650, to the commercial grade Super 1050. They even offer a progressive shotshell loader that blows away everything on the market. Your first question should be – exactly what are my short and long term goals for this machine? Your final decision will depend on how many rounds and how many calibers you will shoot (monthly), and money spent vs. time spent reloading. If you shoot up to 2000 rounds/month in one or two pistol calibers, then the Square Deal or the RL 550B will be perfect. If, on the other hand, you plan to dethrone Rob Leatham (The Great One) at the next IPSC World Championship, well, you’d better get the Super 1050, which is capable of cranking out serious quantities of match-grade ammo. (More below…) For each machine, I’ll exaplain:
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Dillon F.A.Q.
Which Dillon? |
| Square Deal B | Dillon F.A.Q.
Which Dillon? |
| Dillon’s lowest priced – Pistol calibers only – progressive reloading press is the Square Deal B.
It comes with:
Note: Pic includes optional accessories: Strong Mount, Bullet Tray, and Low Powder Sensor. Its features include:
The Square Deal provides an economical means of loading medium volumes of pistol ammo. If you only plan to load pistol ammo, don’t have much cash to spend, and don’t need to crank out huge volumes in the shortest time possible, the Square Deal may be for you. Drawbacks:
The only time I ever recommend a SqDeal (over the 550) is if you have loaded on a friend’s SqDeal and liked it. RFP: (Recommended First Purchase) Additional options: NCC: (Nice Caliber Conversion) $31.95 – Toolhead Only (inc. Powder Die but not Powder Measure) Approximate time to change calibers: 10 to 15 minutes.
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| RL 550B Reloading Press | Dillon F.A.Q.
Which Dillon? |
| Now let’s checkout the real workhorse of the Dillon family – The RL 550B.
The RL 550B does not come with Dies. Note: Pic includes optional accessories: Strong Mount, Bullet Tray, Aluminum Roller Handle, and Low Powder Sensor. Its features include:
Dillon’s RL 550B has all the simplicity and reliability of a single-stage reloading press, but it loads a complete round with every pull of the handle. And it’s as easy to learn to reload on as a single stage! If you plan to load multiple pistol and rifle calibers and can only justify owning one press, this is the only machine to consider. It’s a rugged, durable machine that will virtually produce ammo forever. A common misconception: Manually indexing the shellplate slows down the machine. The truth is: Without a Casefeeder, auto-indexing only unnecessarily complicates the machine, without offering any increase in speed. Because, while your right hand cycles the handle, your left hand grabs a bullet, then waits for the shellplate to return. After seating the primer, while your right hand is reaching for a new piece of brass, your left hand indexes the shellplate and sets the bullet on the case (which is charged with powder) before your right hand can insert a new case in the Shellplate. If you plan to load multiple calibers on one machine, would like to switch calibers quickly, easily, and inexpensively, this is the machine for you. Recommended for loading up to 2500 rounds/month in a single caliber, or almost anytime you plan to switch calibers more than a couple times a month. I almost always recommend the 550 for your first progressive reloading machine. RL 550B Casefeeder
$254.95 – Price (w/o Caliber Conversion) 550 Height Dimensions (w/Casefeeder) With Casefeeder and 550 Strong Mount: 46″ Should I buy the Casefeeder if I buy a 550? If the 550 feels like the right machine for you, but think you’d really like to get the 650 – especially if your buddies are pressuring you to get a 650: Check this Topic in my Forum. Drawbacks:
RFP: (Recommended First Purchase) Additional options available: Approximate time to change calibers: 10 – 15 minutes at the outside, and down to about 60 seconds if both calibers involved in the conversion use the same Shellplate (as with a .45 ACP and .308 Win) and you bought a Deluxe Quick-Change Kit. RL 550B Caliber Conversion Cross Reference Chart
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| XL 650 Reloading Press | Dillon F.A.Q.
Which Dillon? |
| The fully progressive XL 650, with optional case feeder, is the competitive shooter’s dream come true.
The XL 650 does not come with Dies. Note: Pic includes optional accessories: Strong Mount, Bullet Tray, Aluminum Roller Handle, Casefeeder, and Low Powder Sensor. Its features include:
The 650 was designed with the serious competition shooter in mind – it’s reasonably priced, and it can crank out a boatload of ammo. (Allowing you to spend more of your hard-earned cash on reloading components, which you’ll need to feed your 650.) Recommended for loading 2000-3500 rounds/month in a single caliber, but seldom as your first progressive machine. And I never recommend it for your first reloading machine, unless you have a buddy with one. I have two minor complaints. First, it is a little more difficult to clear a stoppage than it is on the 1050. (The 8-station shell plate on the 1050 leaves you plenty of room to work; opposed to the 5-station, 650.) Second, you seat the primer manually, by feel, at the end of the upstroke, like most every other press in the world. Conversely, the 1050 seats the primer, based on a mechanical adjustment, on the downstroke. (More below…) Although not technically a “drawback,” the case feeder for the 650 is optional, meaning add another 180 bucks to the base price of the machine. (Don’t even think of buying a 650 without the casefeeder.) 650 Height Dimensions (w/Casefeeder): Note: See the 1050 section below for the question: Should I buy a 650 or a 1050? RFP: (Recommended First Purchase) Additional options available: NCC: (Nice Caliber Conversion) Approximate time to change calibers: 20 minutes. If you are leaning toward the 650 over the 550 because the Powder Check System is not available for the 550 – Check this thread in my Forum. If this will be my first press, is the 650 too complicated? (Answer opens new window in my forum.) 650 Priming Quick-Change assembly:
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| SUPER 1050 B | Dillon F.A.Q.
Which Dillon? |
| At last, we come to the unexcelled king of the Dillon line, or any other manufacturer’s line for that matter — The Super 1050 B.
Its features include and it comes with:
The Super 1050B’s lengthened frame and new crank assembly have been improved to provide greater strength and smoother operation, especially when advancing the shellplate. In addition, the increased stroke now accommodates rifle calibers while the handle stroke is kept to a minimum, meaning less work for the operator. It comes complete with a Casefeeder, Roller Handle, and Dies. In fact, the only options to consider are the Powder Check system and the Bullet Tray; the latter replacing the plastic bullet tray standard with the machine. You’ll find the primer pocket swager invaluable, even if only a single piece of military brass sneaks through your machine. In fact, the priming swaging station, in addition to seating the primer on the downstroke, are the two main advantages of the machine over the XL 650. Assisted only by the Dillon’s RF 100 Automatic Primer filler, I once loaded 1000 rounds on a 1050 in 33 minutes. And I wasn’t even cranking the handle like a madman – it was just a smooth, consistent run. Of course, I’ve loaded a few bazillion rounds over the years, so that helps. If you want/need to load a garage full of ammo and would rather spend more time on the range than pulling the handle, the 1050 is the machine for you. Not recommended until you are shooting 4000+ rounds/month in a single caliber, and never as your first progressive machine. $1739.95 – Base Price and RFP (in pistol calibers) Additional options: Caliber Conversion Requirements: Changing calibers is about a 15 to 30 minute operation, depending on your familiarity with the machine and the specifics of the change. In addition, the 1050 ships from the factory with either a large or small priming system, (not both), and one Casefeed Plate: (either a) Small or Large Pistol, or a Small or Large Rifle. Additional casefeeder plates are $37.95, and the large or small Priming System is $104.95. So at the worst possible scenario, your entire (first) Caliber Conversion could run as high as $581.75.
1050 Priming System: The Square Deal, 550, and 650 come with both small and large priming systems and two powder bars, which together will handle 95% of any caliber you’ll load. The 1050, however, only comes with one priming system and one powder bar, for whichever caliber you order. Should I get the 650 or the 1050? A common question: I could probably afford the 1050, but do I really need it? I asked this question to three friends and long-time reloaders at Dillon Precision. Their answer: If you’ll only load one to three-thousand rounds per month, and plan to switch calibers from now and then to frequently – get the 650. If you plan to shoot 50,000 to 60,000 rounds a year (4,000+ rounds/month), especially if don’t plan to switch calibers – get the 1050. So, if caliber changes will be involved, lean toward the 650. If you don’t plan to switch calibers, and would just like to set down at the machine and crank out some serious ammo when you have a few minutes – get the 1050. One usually knows when they’re ready for the 1050. If you’re not sure, get the 650. Some years ago, just as I was about to pay too much money for my VW Westfalia, the salesman cinched the deal, saying – “If you’re happy with the vehicle, in a month you’ll have completely forgotten how much you paid, let alone a year from now.” Well, he was right. If you can afford it and don’t plan to switch calibers, get the 1050. You’ll smile every time you sit down to load. Warranty Note for the Super 1050: |
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It comes with:
It comes with:
| Machine Options | |
| The Strong Mount
Available for the Square Deal, RL 550B, and XL 650. If your bench is not bolted to the wall or floor, or isn’t heavily constructed, definitely order the strong mount and bullet tray when you order the press. It increases the “footprint” to over ten inches, spreading the load over the bench instead of stressing the leading edge. The Strong Mount improves every operation on every machine, especially the automatic powder dispensing and priming systems on all machines, and the Casefeeder and auto indexing operation on the 650. Bullet Tray Empty Case Bin and Bracket (550 only) Roller Handle A 550 owners poll from my forum: Do you prefer the Roller Handle for your 550? Powder Check System 550 Powder Check Workaround: Since you cannot use the Powder Check System on the 550, an excellent work-around is to buy a small, dental or mechanics-type mirror – which have a universal joint between the mirror and the handle – tape it to the press’s frame and adjust it so you can see into the case before you set a bullet on a charged case. Then either a case without powder or a double charge is readily apparent. Low Powder Sensor |
Dillon F.A.Q.
Which Dillon? |
| Caliber Conversions | |
For EACH caliber, changing calibers on an RL 550B or XL 650 requires:
And, although not technically required but HIGHLY RECOMMENDED – Either a:
Click the pic to see the above explained visually (opens new window) -> The Deluxe Quick-Change Kit includes a Powder Measure, Powder Die, Toolhead, and Toolhead Stand. ($103.95 – $107.95) Since the Deluxe Quick-Change Kit includes the Powder Measure, it allows you to leave a dedicated Powder Measure on each Toolhead (along with the Dies). Which means you can change the entire Toolhead assembly in a couple seconds without having to replace, adjust, or re-calibrate anything on the Toolhead assembly. Instead of the Deluxe Quick-Change Kit, you can save approximately $65 by buying a Toolhead and Powder Die. (Available as a “one-click-purchase” in my Dillon Store.) Without the Deluxe Quick-Change Kit, you’ll have to move and recalibrate the Powder Measure each time you switch calibers. Although not too big of a deal, it does require quite a bit of time to re-calibrate the Powder Measure every time you change calibers. Especially if you don’t have an electronic scale. If you plan to change from pistol to rifle or vise-versa, it is worth buying at least one Deluxe Quick-Change Kit. Then you could leave one Powder Measure set up with the Small (Pistol) charge bar and the other Powder Measure set up with the Large (Rifle) charge bar. In other words, you’d have a dedicated Powder Measure for both pistol and rifle. What powders meter well in Dillon’s Powder Measures? (Link in my Forums, opens new window.) RL 550B, “EZ-Buy” Caliber Conversion Packages More on the Toolhead & Powder Die vs. the Deluxe Quick-Change Kit in the Dillon FAQs. Note: When purchased in any caliber initially, both the 550 and the 650 come with a Toolhead, Powder Measure, and Powder Die. And since you will typically always leave one Toolhead Assembly in the machine, you do not need to purchase any additional Toolhead Stands. Or in other words, you only need additional Toolhead Stands (or Toolheads or Deluxe Quick-Change Kits) for each additional Caliber Conversion. Caliber Conversion “Crossover” notes for the 550: The 9mm and the 40 S&W are an increasingly common Conversion “Crossover,” for the 550. Even though these two calibers require different Locator Buttons, since the Caliber Conversion Kits for both calibers use the same Shellplate, you can still save approx. $26 by not buying a complete Caliber Conversion Kit: … In other words, if you you’re loading 9mm on your 550, and want to convert to 40 S&W, all you need, Caliber Conversion Kit-wise, is a 40 caliber Powder Funnel and Qty. 3, “#2” Locator Buttons. (And note that the 38 Special/357 Magnum Caliber Conversion Kit uses “#2” Locator Buttons.) RL 550B Caliber Conversion Cross-reference (“Crossover”) Chart For different cartridges that use the same Dies and Caliber Conversion Kits, do I need Dies and a Toolhead (or Deluxe Quick-Change Kits) for each caliber? Common calibers that share the same Dies and Caliber Conversion Kits:
Although the ultra-cadillac setup would be to have dedciated Toolhead assemblies for both calibers – that can get a bit pricey, especially if you buy Deluxe Quick-Change Kits in addition to the Dies, for both calibers. Here’s how I setup a single Toolhead and set of Dies to load two calibers. Say you are loading for 38 Special and you are ready to switch to 357 Mag. Before you readjust the Seat, Crimp, and Powder Dies to load 357, mark each Die body with a blue Sharpie marker, and also make a corresponding mark on the Toolhead. Then before you readjust the Seat, Crimp and Powder Dies to go back to 38 Special, mark the Dies/Toolhead again, but this time with a black Sharpie marker. Now with those reference marks for each caliber, you can quickly readjust the three Dies to change back and forth between the two calibers. Changing Calibers on an XL 650 or Super 1050B requires:
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Dillon F.A.Q.
Which Dillon? |
| Dillon Dies | |
| I highly recommend Dillon’s carbide pistol dies for all Dillon’s presses. I’ve used Dillon’s .40 S&W Dies in my 1050 ever since they were specifically redesigned for progressive machines. The radiused opening on all three dies is critical for performance on a progressive machine, (especially for the sizing die), and the quick-disassembling, easily adjustable seating dies are a thing of beauty compared to the traditional offering.
Notes for non-Dillon Dies in a Dillon Press Occasionally, for a “non-Dillon” Die to be adjusted and locked down far enough in the Toolhead, you may have to put the Die Lock Ring on the bottom of the Toolhead, as opposed to the top (like it normally would be). How to adjust the “Taper Crimp” Die for pistol cartridges After the round comes out of the “flare-removing die,” measure the case mouth at the very end with the thin end of a pair of calipers. And roll the case around and take an average of measurements from several different positions. You want the measurement to be the bullet diameter plus two case wall thicknesses. Most all pistol cases have a wall thickness of .010″ – so add .020″ to the bullet’s diameter – and that’s your “flare-removing” setting. Note for Dillon Dies in non-Dillon Presses For 5-station, non-Dillon presses, you could use Dillon’s 3-Die sets, but you may need to purchase an additional Expander Die. (They’re available for $10 – $15.)
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| Reloading Accessories | |
| Safety Glasses Never pull the handle on any reloading press without a good pair of safety glasses on your face. (Not on your bench.) Whenever I am around reloading equipment, ammo, or firearms, I always have eye protection on. Just seen to many crazy things happen over the years…
Also consider bolting your bench to the wall if possible. Anything you can do to strengthen your bench, or the connection between your bench and the machine, is a good thing, especially for the 650. A commonly asked 650 question: How tall is the 650 with the Casefeeder and the 650 Strong Mount? Answer: 45″. A Diverse Collection of various Reloading Benches and Machines (in my Forum) RL 550B/XL 650 Toolholder & Wrench Kit (New Item)
Just the ball-end Hex Keys alone are a big improvement over the standard Hex Keys that come with a 550 or 650. And I always recommend the 1″ Bench Wrench. What if you have a 1050 and want to buy the Toolholder w/Wrenches? Get the 550 w/o Casefeeder version. 1″ Bench Wrench If you plan to use “non-Dillon” Dies, you might consider buying the “Bench Wrench/5 1″ Lock Rings” package deal ($9.95), so you can put Dillon’s 1″ Lock Rings on your dies. (So you can now use the 1″ Bench Wrench on your dies.) Dillon’s now has a new style Bench Wrench for the Square Deal, which fits the Dies and the Powder Measure.
Powder Scale On BrianEnos.com, you can still buy my Pro-digital Scale, for $159.95, which includes a LIFETIME warranty. (I sold them when I was a dealer for Dillon Precision, and I ship them USPS Priority Mail.) Dillon offers a standard balance-beam “Eliminator” Scale ($79.95), and their digital “D-terminator” Scale ($139.95). Powder Scale/Powder Measure Calibration Tip In a nutshell – throw four individual charges in the scale’s pan before adjusting the Powder Measure. Especially as you’re coming close to your target charge weight. Here’s a technique that works well if the cartridge case will hold two charges of your target powder charge. Clear all the empty cases out of the Shellplate, and remove the Locator Buttons from the powder dropping station and the bullet seating stations. Put an empty, primed case in the powder dropping station. Cycle the handle so it drops one charge in the case. Remove the case, place it back in the powder dropping station and cycle the handle again. Remove the case and dump the (two charges of) powder in the scale’s pan. Repeat that procedure. Now you have four charges in the pan. Say your target powder charge is 4.0 grains; your scale should read 16.0 grains. You might make a sticky for your reloading bench that has 4x totals for your favorite charge weights. Example: Calibrating the Powder Measure using this technique is not only considerably more accurate than the “drop-one-charge-then-adjust-the-Powder-Measure” method, it will save you quite a bit of time, in the long run, as well.
Case Lube Since I’m often asked this on the phone – I highly recommend Hornady’s “One Shot” case lube – but for pistol cases only. I don’t sell it but you should be able to find it at your local gun shop. Basically, you just dust a light layer over the cleaned cases and forget about it. You don’t even need to tumble or clean it off. Dillon sells a pump-dispensing bottle of environmentally friendly Case Lube for $8.95, which I highly specifically for rifle cases. How many cases can you lube with a bottle of Dillon’s lube: Approximately 1,500 – 2,000 .223 cases, depending how much you apply. Case lube: Brand and Application Methods Discussion (in my Forum) Especially for rifle cases: Case Cleaners & Media Separators If you load an appreciable amount of ammo, your next purchase will probably be a case cleaner and media separator. The CV-2000 series Case Cleaner and Media Separator are monster’s, well suited for cleaning lots of brass. If you have plenty of room and are into mass production, get the big boys. Otherwise, I always recommend the 750 Tumbler and the 500 Media Separator for your first purchase. The current CV-750 Case Cleaner has the same motor that’s in the super heavy-duty CV-2001 Tumbler. Case Cleaners (Tumblers) Case/Media Separators Usually, you already know if you need the larger sized Cleaner/Separators. For cleaning brass before you run it through your press, coarse ground corn-cob media works great. (Avoid fine-ground corn cob media.) Most prefer to add Dillon’s Rapid Polish Case Cleaner to the media, especially if you like your cases to come out all nice and shiny. Personally, I’m into volume rather than beauty, so I just pour the cases in the media, fire ‘er up, and come back in 20 – 30 minutes. (The time required to clean the brass will vary in relationship to how clean the media is.) What is your favorite Tumbling Media, corncob or walnut? (in my Forums, opens new window) Primer Flip Tray, Primer Pickup Tubes, and RF 100 Primer Filler Each Primer Pickup Tube holds 100 primers (both large and small) and are used to drop 100 primers, picked up from the Flip Tray by the Pickup Tubes, into the press’s primer magazine. Pour a box of 100 primers onto the Primer Flip Tray, then gently shake the tray until all 100 primers are flipped “anvil side up.” Put on the Primer Flip Tray’s lid, flip it over, remove the “bottom” of the Flip Tray, now you have 100 primers “cup side up,” ready to be picked up by a Pickup Tube. Each Pickup Tube has a flexible, plastic tip on the end that grips/holds a primer when the tube’s tip is pushed down over it. You simply push the tube’s tip down over each primer until all the primers are up in the Pickup Tube. With a little practice you’ll suck up a 100 primers in no time. With Dillon’s Primer Flip Tray ($19.95) and an extra four-pack of Primer Pickup Tubes ($23.95), you can have 500 primers ready ready to feed the machine before you sit down to load. (Each press comes with 1 large and 1 small Primer Pickup Tube.) And, you’ll have a few bucks left over to take your wife or girlfriend out to dinner. RF 100 Automatic Primer Filler – many consider it a luxury, especially the potential “wifeless diners.” If your budget allows it, however, once you watch it work, you’ll never touch a primer pickup tube again. Priced at $314.95, and $47.95 for the conversion to the opposite primer size – it’s the “volume shooter’s” dream come true. The RF 100 Primer Filler does not require nor can it use standard Primer Pickup Tubes. It requires it’s own, specially designed, shielded tube. Note: I do not recommend the RF 100 if you are buying your first Dillon reloading press. Get some Primer Pickup Tubes – you’ll know for sure when you’re ready for the RF 100. RF 100 Primer Filler Tuning Tips (in my Forum)
Caliper: Dial and Digital Dial Calipers don’t require a battery, which is their ONLY advantage over Digital Calipers. BrianEnos.com’s Digital Calipers have a large, easy-to-read display, which is accurate to +/- .001″ (+/- .0005 resolution), and they read in either inches or millimeters. I highly recommend digital calipers – they’re much easier to read and faster to use then dial calipers. Adjusting a Taper Crimp Die with Calipers (in my Forum) Case Gages A Case Gage will quickly locate two common errors: Not enough crimp (too much “bell” left on the case mouth), and if the case is not resized enough at the base. Either one of those errors will cause the cartridge to not chamber in your pistol. On the other hand, Calipers are for measuring overall length and double checking the crimp dimension (or more accurately – the “bell removal”). A Case Gage will not tell you if the bullet is not seated deep enough. That’s what Calipers are for. And Calipers will not tell you if a round will not chamber in your pistol or revolver because the base of the case was not resized enough. But the Case Gage quickly will. Technically, the best Case Gage is your gun’s chamber. But who wants to disassemble their pistol just to chamber-check ammo as it’s coming out of the press. Of course that’s not nearly as difficult with a revolver, unless it’s locked in a safe. Pistol calibers – $15.25; Rifle calibers – $25.95 – 27.95
Resale value: Dillon’s lifetime “No BS” warranty: Note: All electrical/electronic components of all Dillon equipment are covered by a one-year warranty from date of purchase. As my friend Rondy would often say, “There you have it.” |
Dillon F.A.Q.
Which Dillon? |
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